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2004 Guinea Pig II
Road Report and Photos
This year's Guinea Pig II trip was fantastic! I will definitely be running it again next year. We trailered the bikes up to Prudhoe Bay and spent 7 days riding south to Fairbanks. Along the way, we checked out the old gold mining towns of Manley Hotsprings and Central. Both towns were started around the turn of the century, and showcase hotsprings, mining roads, and colorful locals. Our group had a terrific time, and fit right in, even during the solstice party in Central, where we were introduced to the soon-to-be Olympic sport of 4-Wheel bowling!
First, here are some pictures......
In Anchorage, Kyle, I and crew
loaded 6 bikes and were ready to roll to the Arctic Ocean.
(notice the clean equipment)
We stopped off half-way to Fairbanks to check straps at a rest stop near Mt. McKinley. In all, we had 3 2004 Kawasaki KLR 650s, 2 BMW F 650 GSs, and I was riding the yellow Suzuki DR 650. All of them are the right equipment for the Dalton Highway.
We picked up a Motley Crew from Michigan in Fairbanks, and headed up the Dalton Highway to Deadhorse. Although only 414 miles long, the trip took 13 hours due to the dirt highway conditions. Once we left Fairbanks, Wayne looked at his GPS and found that there were no McDonalds for the rest of the trip. This shot is near the Brooks Range.
The Dalton dirt paints our wagon as we head north of Brooks Range. The country out here is remote and spectacular. We came across some Dall Sheep in Atigun Pass, and saw few vehicle as we headed north.
Here is Kyle and a dramatic shot of a rain storm behind us on our last leg to Deadhorse. The tundra is flat and you can see for miles to the Brooks Range. Caribou dotted the landscape as we approached the Arctic Ocean. (Did I Mention we had lost a couple of trailer tires by now?) This is NOT road bike territory!!
Somehow, my camera went into Black and White Mode, but it does some justice to the 35 degree weather! In Deadhorse, the wind was coming off the frozen arctic ice. Caribou were drifting through town. The town is not really a town at all, just a conglomeration of industrial buildings, servicing the oil pipeline and oil wells in the area. No alcohol is allowed in town, so bring your own!! Kyle gets everything ready for the ride the next day. Martin, our 6th tour member, flew in a couple of days early, and met us at the Arctic Caribou Inn "lobby" when we pulled in. We did not fall off the end of the earth in Deadhorse, but we could see it from there!
Wayne in front of the general store and a sign you don't see every day.
Here's Brian, ready to ride.
Here is the entire group, right before the ride. Downtown Deadhorse is decorated "industrial". The first morning we all took a tour of the oil fields and the Arctic Ocean. Brian tackled Mark in the ocean. Believe it or not, THAT WATER IS COLD!!
We ran into hundreds of Caribou outside of Deadhorse. We had to wait for them to cross the road. It was like nothing I have ever experienced!
Carl and Brian, taking a break on the Dalton. They usually ride their Harleys together in Michigan. This time they rode the KLRs. They both were impressed by durability and easy handling of the KLRs, and found them to be a safe bike to ride this territory.
Here is Wayne, checking on his GPs with an ocean of tundra in the background.. Where are we Wayne??!!
After a 100 miles of riding south from Deadhorse, we start to enter the Brooks Range.
Carl and Mark, taking a break by the pipeline.
There I am, ready to ride Atigun Pass. It was hot!!
Here is Martin taking of swig of needed water....the temperature was in the 80's.After over-nighting in Coldfoot, we headed on to the Arctic Circle. From Prudhoe to Coldfoot, there are 259 miles of no gasoline stations, and rugged roads. We picked up one stranded BMW rider, Harry, who had a bent back rim and a flat rear tire. We loaded his bike on the trailer and hauled him to Coldfoot and got him fixed up and on his way. I recommend no big bikes north of the Brooks Range, and especially no street bikes. Sure, you can do it, but tell that to the riders who get helicopetered out each year for trying it. I have heard of two riders helied out already this year. It is dangerous country, and you need the right tool for the right job, period.
Well, here it is! Now where is the cold beer?
Kyle is fixing a flat on the
trail. When riding this rugged country, be prepared for anything, and
have the necessary tools and training to get through it. The next 7/11
is 360 miles away.....
We stayed the night at the Hotspot Cafe, just north of the Yukon River. Theresa always greets us with the best hospitality in the north country!
Here is a fellow rider who is celebrating his 50th birthday by riding to the Arctic Circle.
We stayed in Manley Hotsprings at the Manley Roadhouse. It was established in 1903, and is like a museum inside. The town is very small, and is surrounded by wilderness. The locals are friendly and the phones work! We also went to the hotsprings that night: 3 hot pools enclosed by a garden of tropical plants including grapes hanging from the ceiling.
We stayed at Ron's Chatanika Lodge, north of Fairbanks. It is only 20 miles out of town, and paved the entire way. I recommend it to all riders as a great place to eat and stay the night.. Here, Kyle is getting a lesson in up-side-down tomatoes.
Here they are, still alive and ready to ride!!
On the Steese Highway, we met up with a group of about 15 Dual-Sport riders who were touring the state for 12 days.
We stopped off the Steese Highway and explored several areas, including an old wagon trail that used to connect Central with Fairbanks. The bikes were perfect for this sort of "off the cuff" riding.
Here is another shot of the hills outside of Central. We spent an entire day scouting around the area on the old mining roads. Fun Stuff!!
The Central Solstice Barbecue and party was a highlight for the group.( I plan to make it with the next group in 2005) The barbecue at the museum was followed by "4-Wheel Bowling" in the middle of the Steese Highway in Downtown Central. It was then followed by a men's wet T-shirt contest and women's pretty foot contest. Needless to say, these folks are relaxed, and "Central time" is aligned with "Mexican time".
Wayne is talking up his Hayabusa at the farewell dinner in Fairbanks. OK, so the bike is FAST!!
The trip was a real success and I am definitely running it next year. The Dalton Highway is a test on men and machine. I recommend the KLR over any bigger bike. It is one of the safest options for this kind of terrain. From seeing hundreds of Caribou to crossing the Brooks Range, to meeting all the crazy locals...this trip is World Class Adventure. Check the web for details.. I will host up to 6 riders next year.
-Phil
Prudhoe Bay 2005 Itinerary and Info
and
Deadhorse Down 2005 Itinerary and Info
Contact Alaska Rider
Tours
Alaska Rider Tours
Phil Freeman
P.O. Box 1392
Girdwood, AK 99587
dualsport@akrider.com
www.akrider.com
1-800-756-1990
(907)272-2777
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